Start
This grand Victorian-era Peoples Palace is the de-facto cultural hub of north London, hosting big-name music gigs, exhibitions and an in-season ice rink and street food market. Alexandra Palace Way; www.alexandrapalace.com.
163 m
Keep right
201 m
Turn right onto Mount View Road
201 m
Shoreditch gets all the name cred in the global atlas of boho cool, but its boundaries are as blurry as the night out youre sure to have. So its worth a short saunter east to Bethnal Green and beyond to Mile End, where you can still get a world-class cocktail but it comes garnished with a more authentic slice of London life.
201 m
Housed in a railway arch down a narrow street lined with faceless blue rolldown shutters, Redchurch Brewery guarantees a convivial night out with punters milling amongst beer tanks and brewing equipment, or up on the mezzanine level playing darts or picking out the next vinyl for the record player. Beers are named after local micro-hoods: Bethnal Pale Ale, Old Ford Export, Hoxton Stout. 275-276 Poyser St; www.redchurch.beer; 5pm-midnight Thu and Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat.
201 m
This former glue factory turned distillery really sums up the essence of east London, and its the first distillery to take up residence in the area – once an epicentre of booze production – in more than 100 years. Copper stills gleam from behind the bar, where cocktail shakers and their masters whip up concoctions from the menu or bespoke to your tastes. Unit GF1, Bow Wharf; http://eastlondonliquorcompany.com; 5-11pm Tue-Thu, 5pm-midnight Fri, noon-12.30am Sat, noon-11pm Sun.
201 m
An unhurried Spanish beachside bar might seem like a false promise for distinctly urban and decidedly landlocked Bethnal Green, but thats the vibe that Chiringuito guarantees. In true east London fashion, the building is actually a repurposed public toilet, now with floor-to-ceiling windows to bear it all. Upstairs is a rooftop terrace, especially perfect in summer for watching life hurry on by. Museum Gardens, Cambridge Heath Rd; www.chiringuito.co.uk; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun.
201 m
With its slatted blinds and darkened interior, Satans Whiskers comes off as something of a mafia hangout from the outside. But enter below the neon sign and let your eyes adjust to the flickering tabletop candlelight, and feel welcomed by a daily-rotating cocktail menu, walls decked out in vintage French posters and fresh taxidermy, and a class hip-hop soundtrack. Give the devil his due. 343 Cambridge Heath Rd; 5pm-midnight.
201 m
The real purpose of this ornate repurposed Victorian-era firehouse, on an otherwise nondescript stretch of Bethnal Green Rd, is given away only by the colourful fluttering prayer flags. The London Buddhist Centre brings an authentic side of the Far East to east London, and its a tranquil space to meditate or set about realigning your chakras. 51 Roman Rd; www.lbc.org.uk; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat.
201 m
Hidden behind a second-hand furniture store, Renegade Winery takes up residence on the lesser-known side of Bethnal Green Rd, calling itself east Londons first urban winery. It gathers grapes from around Europe before then barreling and fermenting the wine right here in this railway arch. Arch 12, Gales Gardens; https://renegadelondonwine.com; 5-11.30pm Wed-Fri, 2-11.30pm Sat, 2-11pm Sun.
201 m
Opened in 1900, this beloved greasy spoon is still run by the same family. 332 Bethnal Green Rd, London E2 0AG; 020 7739 4873; 8am-4pm Mon-Sat.
201 m
If youve fallen head over heels in love with east London, adorable Snap is a must-stop for a neighbourhood souvenir. E3, the local postcode, adorns everything from greeting cards to clothing. The ubiquitous silver nitrous oxide canisters usually found out on the street are used to decorate the window displays. 465 Roman Rd; https://snap-store.com; 10.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat.
201 m
Magnetic Stoke Newington clings on to its quirky charm, thanks in large part to the fact that most of the area is just slightly too far away from a Tube or train station, sparing it from most of the redevelopment of other nearby trendy east London neighbourhoods. Wonderful community-centric local shops, bars and restaurants crowd Stokeys high street and make this nook feel more like a village than part of the chaotic capital.
201 m
Some 450 colour-marked rock climbing routes clamber up the walls inside this elegant former Victorian water pumping station, one of the largest climbing walls in London. Skill levels from total newbie to somewhere near free solo are catered for, and the routes, which can reach up to a vertigo-inducing 12.5m (41ft), are regularly reset. Green Lanes; www.castle-climbing.co.uk; noon-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat and Sun; £13.
201 m
Built in 1833 but closed to the public until just recently, the reed-lined Woodberry Wetlands were finally opened by celebrated naturalist and worlds favourite grandpa David Attenborough. Its a serene habitat for birds, bats and plant life – a happy coexistence, considering the city of nearly 10 million on its doorstep. Walk the southerly path around the reservoir for a quintessentially contrasting London view of cat tails poking out of the reed beds with towering blocks of luxury flats in the background. Lordship Rd; www.woodberrywetlands.org.uk; free.
201 m
A sister cemetery to Highgate, Abney Park is an enchanting urban ruin, where narrow paths meander among woodlands dotted with barely legible headstones. It was the burial ground for dissenters, including influential Presbyterians, Quakers and Baptists, such as Salvation Army founder William Booth. Dont miss the abandoned Gothic chapel; sign up for a guided tour if you want to poke around the interior. 215 Stoke Newington High St; https://abneypark.org; 8am-dusk; free.
201 m
A cocktail den from the master mixologists at Happiness Forgets in Hoxton, named one of the top 50 bars in the world in 2017 and 2018, Original Sin is a brooding basement bar with unsurprisingly top-notch tipples. The drinks are complex without being complicated and are presented with understated elegance to imbibers sunk deep in the plush booths. 129 Stoke Newington High St; http://originalsin.bar; 6-11pm Sun and Mon, 6pm-midnight Tue and Wed, 6pm-1.30am Thu-Sat.
201 m
A Stoke Newington brunch institution, The Haberdashery dishes out endless breakfasts and lunchtime cafe fare as if it were your nans kitchen: food is infused with love and presented on mismatched vintage plates to hungry diners surrounded by walls covered in immaculate Victorian fireplace tiles. 170 Stoke Newington High St; www.the-haberdashery.com; 020 3643 7123; 9am-5.30pm.
201 m
Working Londons culinary trend of the moment – Levantine food meets modern European cuisine – the Good Egg, with its long opening hours, is many things to many people: a family-friendly cafe, a trendy restaurant and the best place in Stoke Newington for brunch. The trick is that it consistently delivers. Expect queues, especially at the weekend. 93 Stoke Newington Church St; www.thegoodegg.co; 020 7682 2120; 10am-11pm Tue-Sun, 9am-4pm Mon.
201 m
Its easy to dredge up boatloads of maritime history in these two waterside neighbourhoods sandwiching the River Thames. Current residents are much tamer than the notorious slave traders and drunken sailors of yore: nearly every warehouse has been converted into modern living space after the industrial docks shipped out in the 1970s.
201 m
Londons oldest Thamesside pub, the 16th-century Mayflower is where the eponymous ship set sail for the New World. You cant get closer to the river without going in it: the tidal Thames laps at the shore just below the Mayflowers back terrace. The atmosphere is always cheerful, complemented by an open fire in winter. 117 Rotherhithe St; www.mayflowerpub.co.uk; 11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun.
201 m
On this spot in 1843 was the worlds most popular tourist attraction: the first underwater tunnel, brainchild of engineer Marc Isambard Brunel (father of famous engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel) who suggested it as an alternative to a bridge crossing on the boat-choked Thames. In 2016, the former entrance shaft of the Thames Tunnel became accessible again and now regularly doubles as a live music venue and pop-up bar, just as it did when it first opened. Railway Ave; www.brunel-museum.org.uk; 10am-5pm; £6.
201 m
The River Thames is only now recovering from years of pollution. This almost 300km (186 miles) path starts in the bucolic meadows and pristine rural villages of Oxfordshire before wiggling through the centre of London. The section through Wapping (or even better, a small detour through Shad Thames to Rotherhithe on the south side of the river) has the best urban aesthetic: traipse unhurried along cobbled streets, where small-scale old industrial cranes still dangle overhead. https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/walking/thames-path.
201 m
This huge 19th-century brick vaulted warehouse was once used to store imported tobacco. It was abandoned by the 1980s, when developers tried in vain to transform this area into the Covent Garden of the East End (apparently the ceiling level – equivalent to the height of two bales of tobacco – is too low to be of much use). Although Tobacco Dock still hasnt found another permanent job, it hosts pop-up street food festivals, live music, raves and film screenings. Tobacco Quay, Wapping Ln; https://tobaccodocklondon.com.
201 m
One of the last surviving Victorian music halls in the world, shabby-chic Wiltons still hosts a wide programme of theatre, opera and comedy shows in a grand space with original cast-iron pillars, crumbling plasterwork, exposed brick and a beautiful carved balcony. The exterior was originally five separate Victorian-era houses. Even if youre not here for a show, get lost in the labyrinthine corridors in search of a cocktail. 1 Graces Alley; www.wiltons.org.uk.
201 m
Wappings foreshore is full of stairways leading directly into the Thames, which are eerily half-visible at high tide. Once busy transferring people and cargo to shore, they are now mostly abandoned, crumbling into the river. Wapping Old Stairs are thought to be the site of Execution Dock where pirates and smugglers received the Grace of Wapping – being tied to a stake and left in the river until the rising tide washed over three times.
201 m
Run by a social enterprise, this welcoming tent has become a permanent neighbourhood fixture and a community staple. By day, freelancers lap up flat whites; evening events range from yoga and poetry readings to Philosophy on Tap. Yurt Cafe has also started a trade school of sorts in which teachers lead classes on a bartering basis. 2 Butcher Row; https://precinct.rfsk.org/2-2/yurt-cafe; 9am-5pm.
857 m
Turn right
857 m
Get down and dirty with this neighbourhoods defining characteristic in the historic Shadwell Basin, one of the few docks in the former Port of London that hasnt been landfilled. Kayaking and sailing are on offer, plus climbing and high ropes for landlubbers. 3-4 Shadwell Pierhead; www.shadwell-basin.co.uk.
877 m
Turn right onto Crouch Hill, A1201
905 m
Turn left
916 m
Keep left
1.15 km
Turn right
1.15 km
Turn left
1.20 km
Turn left onto Hornsey Rise Gardens
1.42 km
Turn right onto Sunnyside Road
1.44 km
Turn left
1.46 km
Turn left
1.55 km
Turn right onto Hazellville Road
1.57 km
Turn left onto Cheverton Road
1.88 km
Turn sharp left onto Cressida Road
1.89 km
Turn right onto Harberton Road
2.19 km
Turn right onto Pauntley Street
2.21 km
Turn left
2.24 km
Turn left
2.26 km
Turn right onto Archway Road, A1
2.29 km
Turn left onto Waterlow Road
2.50 km
Turn right onto Highgate Hill, B519
2.58 km
This 4km (2.5-mile) stroll rambles along an abandoned railway line before emerging into Victorian suburbia with views of the distant skyscrapered horizon, and then ducking back into an ancient woodland. The gloriously overgrown tunnels and train platforms are still in situ, now splashed with street art. Start at the top of Muswell Hill or in Highgate Wood. www.parkland-walk.org.uk.
2.77 km
Turn slight right onto Highgate Hill, B519
2.81 km
Keep right onto The Bank
2.96 km
Turn left onto Cholmeley Park
2.98 km
Turn right onto Highgate Hill, B519
3.20 km
Turn left onto South Grove
3.24 km
Turn right onto Pond Square
3.34 km
Turn left onto Pond Square
3.37 km
Turn slight right onto Pond Square
3.40 km
Turn left onto Highgate West Hill
3.88 km
Turn right onto Merton Lane
4.03 km
If you havent had enough with the otherworldly in Highgate Cemetery, this pub is supposedly haunted by the ghost of a barmaid who hanged herself in the cellar (where you can now sit and sip a pint). 77 Highgate West Hill; www.theflaskhighgate.com; 11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun.
4.15 km
Turn slight right onto Boundary Path
4.25 km
Turn left
4.25 km
Turn left
4.30 km
Stuffed with ivy-choked headstones, shroud-covered urns and solemn statues, this moody Gothic graveyard is the final resting place of Karl Marx, Douglas Adams and George Michael. Swains Ln; https://highgatecemetery.org; 10am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; East Cemetery £4, West Cemetery (guided tour required, incl East Cemetery) £12.
4.36 km
Keep left
4.41 km
Keep left
4.47 km
Turn slight right
4.47 km
Turn left
4.60 km
Keep left
4.73 km
Keep left
4.89 km
Keep right
4.93 km
Turn slight left
4.96 km
Keep right
5.02 km
The idyllic northern neighbourhoods of Muswell Hill and Highgate may well have tumbled out of a picturesque olde-worlde English storybook, reality given away only by the views of Londons modern skyline rising like glassy exclamation points to the south. The heart of Highgate is still called the village, evidence enough of its independent attitude.
5.18 km
Turn right
5.28 km
Turn left
5.33 km
Turn left
5.37 km
Rain or shine, devoted wild swimmers can be found bobbing in the murky waters of leafy Hampstead Heaths three ponds. Dont be put off by the waters tawny tone: its routinely tested for quality. Hampstead Heath; 020 7485 5757; from 7am, closing time varies by season; £2.
5.38 km
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